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Stretching your watercolour paper before painting allows you the creative freedom to use as much water as you want, whenever you want. To avoid unsightly cockling – the wrinkling and ridging of...
Using watercolour paper is key because it is designed to be absorbent; it can withstand large quantities of water without cockling (causing the paper to ripple).The smoothest surface is hot press, which is...
With watercolour brushes, it’s important to remove excess water, dry ferrules and handles, reshape brush heads, and rest them with the bristles facing upwards to dry off. Don’t worry if...
It’s better to use low-priced or old brushes if possible. If fine lines are required, a goose quill is ideal and for larger areas you can try a colour shaper...
When pigment particles build up at the base of the brush, it pushes hairs apart and stops the point from forming. To avoid this, wipe your watercolour brush clean with a lint-free...
Brushes come in various shapes like round, flat, filbert, and fan, each offering different mark-making capabilities. Size numbers vary across ranges, so comparing actual brushes is crucial. For watercolourists, shorter...
For watercolour, natural hair brushes like sable offer precise control and excellent colour absorption. Synthetic brushes provide a budget-friendly alternative with professional performance, ideal for both soft watercolour techniques and...
Watercolour brushes are the best as they have soft bristles, making them ideal for working in smooth layers of colour. The size of the brush is crucial depending on what you...
Most brushes have too long a “hair length” from the ferrule for painting miniatures, and most watercolour brushes have so much carrying capacity that they obscure the view of the...
We always recommend removing masking fluid as soon as possible and it should not be left on the piece for longer than 12 hours. The only recommendation if left on...
Granulation medium is only suitable for use with Watercolour.
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